Not just another big fish story - Snorkeling with the Whale Sharks

Before I moved to Playa del Carmen,Mexico I had never even heard of whale sharks.  Last year I had the unique opportunity to actually snorkel with them. 

My day began at the uncomfortably early hour of 3:00 am.  I was instructed to meet our local guide, Jason, at 3:30 am at a local hotel for our trip to Holbox Island and the Gulf of Mexico (not all tours depart at this time).  After sleepy introductions were made with my fellow whale shark ‘hunters’, a group of 8 from Colorado, we loaded into the van and began our journey to the other side of the Yucatan peninsula. 

The van was quiet and cool, and we all dozed during the 3 hour drive.  We woke to the sun rising as we reached the coastal town of Chiquila.  From the dock in Chiquila we boarded a speed boat for the trip to Holbox Island.  Once on Holbox, Jason checked in with our guide, Roberto, to obtain our permits while the rest of us used the time to stretch our legs, grab a ham and cheese croissant and use the facilities.  I headed straight for the coffee. 

We hopped back aboard the speed boat and we’re on our way.  During the 1.5-2 hour ride, Roberto gave us an informative talk on the whale sharks we hoped to see, as well as instructions on how we were allowed to interact with them.  We would be allowed to enter the water, two at a time, with our guide.  We would not be allowed to touch them or swim underneath them.  These rules were developed in an effort to cause as little stress to the whale sharks as possible and any breach of the rules could result in our tour being stopped. 

As we sped along the green waters of the Gulf, we all kept our eyes open for the other marine life that is frequently seen along the way.  Our group was elated to spot several wild dolphins as well as a manta ray.  Truly an added bonus! 

It wasn’t long and we got word to start watching for whale sharks!!!  Until that moment I hadn’t really given much thought to what I was about to do.  I was about to jump into the water with a shark.  Not just any shark, but a shark the size of a whale!  Even though I knew I would not be in any danger, I was more than a little anxious when our first whale shark was spotted.  This yellow-spotted fish seemed as large as our boat!

The boat maneuvered into position and I watched as the first group donned their masks and fins and entered the water.  The smiles on the faces of the other guests as they emerged from the water was enough to quell my fears and turn up my excitement. 

My turn, and I’m ready to go!  I lower myself into the water as Roberto reached for my hand.  Together we swam toward the enormous creature.  Had I not had my teeth firmly sunk into my snorkel, my jaw would have surely dropped in awe.  We kicked hard to keep up with the shark, but it was as if Roberto and I moved in slow motion as the whale shark swam effortlessly by.  My memories of this first encounter play like still photographs in my mind; the large, wide mouth, the deep blackness of its eye, the gaping gills so large they seemed as though I could swim right through them.  A flick of the tail fin and it was gone. 

For a couple of hours we motored around, stopping to snorkel with several different whale sharks, each of us having three or four chances to swim join them in the water.  All too soon it was time to say good bye to the whale sharks and make our return trip to Playa. 

The drive back was quiet as most of the other guests slept.  I was too exhilarated to sleep and chose to relive this once in a lifetime experience of swimming with the whale sharks. 

 - Tyra Hamilton

Whale sharks migrate to the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula during the months of June to September.  For more information about whale shark tours:  http://www.travelrm.com/activities/whale-shark-adventure-seasonal/.  For general information about the whale shark:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whale_shark.  Drawing by Robbie Cada, http://www.fishbase.org/; Photographs courtesy of Jason Sartain